Just after the famous Shiretoko Five Lakes, the main and only street turns into a dirt road. The way should lead to a big waterfall but there is no sign to speak of, let alone the shadow of another person. The deserted road and the multiple signs warning of bears puts you on edge. Small streams run through the thick forest shielding the hot sun above. The temperature is sensibly colder and the smell of the plants and trees pleasantly fill the air.

Every now and then the woods open into open fields and the dark blue of the Pacific Ocean comes to sight making you gaze at the horizon. In the wider spaces the deer roam unhindered, making them easy to spot.

Summer is also the best time to see cute cubs at play, running beside their mothers. After more than ten kilometers the waterfall finally comes into sight. A wide stream of water runs fast down a narrow valley over large and smooth rocks. At the first sight it would probably let you a bit disappointed as Japan has many nicer waterfalls.

A short trail follows the water on one side and stops after just a few steps, going apparently into the river. And that’s when you will understand what makes this place different: the water is warm. The feeling is totally unexpected and in a minute you will find yourself walking into the river. As no algae apparently grow in this water, the stones are not slippery at all, making the climb very easy. Going a bit farther up there are several points where the river forms natural pools. Having a bath completely surrounded by nature is a great experience; but the addition of a view over the majestic ocean makes it truly unforgettable.

Getting there

The only easy way to get there is by car (or bike). The only alternative is to walk the 10 km from the Shiretoko Five Lakes or to try to hitch a ride.

By Sandro Bernardinello