Aomori is a seaside city and it’s the most important port in the northern Honshu. Here you can find some of the best fish in Japan, always absolutely fresh. Augashinsen is the most popular fish market in town but wandering around the small streets can lead you to very interesting places.

It’s the case of the Nokkedon: very close to the main market, this place is a great alternative and can offer you a great experience. It’s hard to find a definition for it but you can say it’s halfway between a standard fish market and a buffet restaurant. Pretty popular between the locals, it’s still mostly unknown among the tourists. Located in a pretty anonymous building, you will find four rows of stands selling food, from raw fish to vegetables or meat. The vendors scream their offers trying to attract the clients and old ladies try to get a bargain price. Locals eating at the shared tables loudly chat while fishermen go in and out with loads of fish buried in ice. The first time I entered the place I didn’t really understand how it works. Here is what I figured out:

• Go to the “Ticket and information counter” located close to one of the entrances. Here you can buy “tickets” for about 100 yen each.
• With these tickets then go to the dedicated “rice” stand where they will give you a bowl of plain hot rice.
• Carrying your rice around, you can then go to any of the stands and exchange your tickets for the small ready-to-eat portions for sale. They usually place them directly over your bowl.
• Once you will feel satisfied with your creation, you can go to one of the dining areas and enjoy your custom made bakedon (the Aomori name for donburi - “rice bowl dish”).

Browsing through the stands you’ll find anything from the classic tuna or salmon sashimi to countless varieties of other foods. Fish eggs of any kind, crabs, shrimps, sea urchins but also steamed vegetables, meat, sweets and anything you can think of. The fish is absolutely fresh and the people are very friendly and kind. The opportunity to make your custom fish bowl is the best way to savor the delicacies Aomori has to offer, and it is fun too.
 

Getting there

The market is located a few minutes walk from Aomori JR station, close to the popular Augashinsen Market.
By Sandro Bernardinello