The Toden Arakawa Line is one of the only remaining streetcars in Tokyo (the other being the Setagaya Line) and the last remaining vestige of the streetcar system that sprawled over Tokyo for the first half of the 1900s.

 

The current line runs from Minowabashi Station in Arakawa Ward to Waseda Station in Shinjuku Ward. It runs through 30 stations between Kita and Toshima Wards across 12.2 kilometers, taking about 60 minutes to complete the stretch. The line runs entirely above-ground, is a one-car operation, and is frequented by locals and students.

The line’s history is apparent in ways that are both overt and subtle. At the Minowabashi Station terminus, the platform is adorned with vintage signboards advertising products that were de rigueur in the Showa era; the edges are tinged with rust. Cigarette kiosks and cafes in areas adjacent to the line similarly look like they haven’t changed much in decades.

 

 

 

 

 

The charming Nurie (coloring book) Museum at Higashi-ogu-sanchome Station is good for the kid at heart (only open on weekends), while the Arakawa Yuen (amusement park) at Arakawa Yuenchi-mae Station is great both for actual children and those who love a gently dilapidated park complete with ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and other tame rides for a cheap price.

At Kajiwara Station, I walked down Shopping Road Kajiwara and headed into Akemiseika, a shop famous for its Toden tram-shaped monaka sweet, as well as an impressive selection of other classic wagashi, such as sakura mochi, dango, and manju. And at Kishimojinmae Station, I walked along the zelkova-tree lined bath to Kishimojindo (shrine), dedicated to the goddess of childbirth and children, and stopped by Kamikawaguchiya on the shrine premises, the oldest candy shop in Japan.

 

 

In my day of exploring the Toden Arakawa Line, I only managed to scratch the surface of the things to do and see along the line. I think there are at least several more days of sights and activities to see, so I’m already planning to go back with a friend soon!