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▼ Jakarta Asian Games / Noguchi Locks Up Sport Climbing Gold
- Category:Event
PALEMBANG, Indonesia — Japan added more medals on Sunday to its tally at the Asian Games in Jakarta and Palembang, a southern city on Sumatra island.
Japan’s haul was 109 as of midnight Saturday, and climber Akiyo Noguchi won the gold in women’s combined sport climbing in Palembang on Sunday, an event added to the Olympic program for the 2020 Tokyo Games.
Also on Sunday, Keiko Nogami took silver in the women’s marathon. Japan also took gold in the eventing team in equestrian, while Yoshiaki Oiwa won gold in eventing individual.
The combined event in sport climbing consists of “speed,” “bouldering” and “lead.” In the speed competitions, athletes climb a 15-meter-high wall with pre-placed bolts, competing in the swiftness of their ascent to the top of the wall.
Six athletes qualified for the women’s combined final, and Noguchi finished sixth in the speed discipline.
After Sa Sol of South Korea finished first in the event, Noguchi said, “The South Korean was a lot faster than we expected.”
In the bouldering competition, four routes are arranged on a 5-meter-high wall. The winner is determined by the overall number of routes climbers ascend and the number of attempts they need. In this competition, Noguchi was the only competitor who succeeded in climbing all four routes.
Japan’s haul was 109 as of midnight Saturday, and climber Akiyo Noguchi won the gold in women’s combined sport climbing in Palembang on Sunday, an event added to the Olympic program for the 2020 Tokyo Games.
Also on Sunday, Keiko Nogami took silver in the women’s marathon. Japan also took gold in the eventing team in equestrian, while Yoshiaki Oiwa won gold in eventing individual.
The combined event in sport climbing consists of “speed,” “bouldering” and “lead.” In the speed competitions, athletes climb a 15-meter-high wall with pre-placed bolts, competing in the swiftness of their ascent to the top of the wall.
Six athletes qualified for the women’s combined final, and Noguchi finished sixth in the speed discipline.
After Sa Sol of South Korea finished first in the event, Noguchi said, “The South Korean was a lot faster than we expected.”
In the bouldering competition, four routes are arranged on a 5-meter-high wall. The winner is determined by the overall number of routes climbers ascend and the number of attempts they need. In this competition, Noguchi was the only competitor who succeeded in climbing all four routes.
“Since I started from the lowest position in the speed competition, I knew that there would be no gold without finishing first in bouldering,” she said.
In the lead competition, the final discipline, athletes climb an 18-meter-high wall on which a difficult route is designed.
Their performances are measured by the highest point reached. Although Kim Ja In of South Korea was the only climber who succeeded in reaching the top of the wall, Noguchi reached the second-highest point to finish as the runnerup in that discipline.
The overall point total for Noguchi was 12, the lowest score among the climbers and the same as South Korea’s Sa. However, Noguchi won the gold medal because she was positioned above Sa in both bouldering and lead.
Noguchi said the South Koreans are more prepared in combined events for sport climbing ahead of the Tokyo Olympic Games.
“Japan should waste no time in preparations,” Noguchi said.
Earlier on Sunday, Nogami finished second in women’s marathon, while Rose Chelimo of Bahrain won gold in the event. After Chelimo broke away from the main pack, Nogami competed with Kim Hye Song of North Korea and eventually finished in 2 hours 36 minutes 27 seconds, 1:36 behind Chelimo.
Meanwhile, Ayumi Uekusa won gold in the women’s over-68-kilogram class when karate’s kumite (sparring) finals began on Saturday.
“Four years ago, I was so disappointed that I finished third,” Uekusa recalled. “I am really glad to finally be able to win.”
Uekusa’s biggest challenge was when she went up against Iran’s Hamideh Abbasali, whom Uekusa lost to in the Asian championship in July, in the semifinal.
While Uekusa stands 168 centimeters, Abbasali is 11 centimeters taller. Thus, Uekusa tried to get inside on Abbasali to take away her high kicks.
Uekusa landed a kick to the midsection, scoring a wazaari. “I tried my best with my short legs,” Uekusa said with a smile.
Also, Yoshitaku Nagasako’s victory in men’s BMX action on Saturday brought Japan its first gold medal in cycling.
“I knew that everyone would feel happy if I won, so I really wanted to get the gold medal,” Nagasako said.
In the lead competition, the final discipline, athletes climb an 18-meter-high wall on which a difficult route is designed.
Their performances are measured by the highest point reached. Although Kim Ja In of South Korea was the only climber who succeeded in reaching the top of the wall, Noguchi reached the second-highest point to finish as the runnerup in that discipline.
The overall point total for Noguchi was 12, the lowest score among the climbers and the same as South Korea’s Sa. However, Noguchi won the gold medal because she was positioned above Sa in both bouldering and lead.
Noguchi said the South Koreans are more prepared in combined events for sport climbing ahead of the Tokyo Olympic Games.
“Japan should waste no time in preparations,” Noguchi said.
Earlier on Sunday, Nogami finished second in women’s marathon, while Rose Chelimo of Bahrain won gold in the event. After Chelimo broke away from the main pack, Nogami competed with Kim Hye Song of North Korea and eventually finished in 2 hours 36 minutes 27 seconds, 1:36 behind Chelimo.
Meanwhile, Ayumi Uekusa won gold in the women’s over-68-kilogram class when karate’s kumite (sparring) finals began on Saturday.
“Four years ago, I was so disappointed that I finished third,” Uekusa recalled. “I am really glad to finally be able to win.”
Uekusa’s biggest challenge was when she went up against Iran’s Hamideh Abbasali, whom Uekusa lost to in the Asian championship in July, in the semifinal.
While Uekusa stands 168 centimeters, Abbasali is 11 centimeters taller. Thus, Uekusa tried to get inside on Abbasali to take away her high kicks.
Uekusa landed a kick to the midsection, scoring a wazaari. “I tried my best with my short legs,” Uekusa said with a smile.
Also, Yoshitaku Nagasako’s victory in men’s BMX action on Saturday brought Japan its first gold medal in cycling.
“I knew that everyone would feel happy if I won, so I really wanted to get the gold medal,” Nagasako said.
- August 27, 2018
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